“When I think about what can happen, it’s scary”

Ten months later, Arnold returned to Sesto, the Dolomites UNESCO World Heritage Site, where he gave a lecture at the Vertical Arena about this fabulous achievement and about his great passion - climbing on rocks and ice - to an extremely interested audience. Dani Arnold also took time for a detailed interview in South Tyrol.

Dani Arnold, how do you rate your fabulous record on the Große Zinne now, with a little distance?

Dani Arnold: “The Eiger record just came about that way. Of course I wanted to get to the summit quickly, but in the end I was lucky. Here, however, it was similar to the Grandes Jorasses – everything worked perfectly. I am still convinced that climbing the Große Zinne in 46.30 minutes is really fast. And it makes me a bit proud. I really never felt like I hesitated for a second too long anywhere. Everything just came together perfectly.”

How do you choose the mountains for your records?

“It is important for me that I am motivated for the goal. It's not always just the name or anything like that. I have to think the line is cool. I find places exciting where history was made. Also for telling stories. Somehow it's also the case that I have to prove myself in the mountaineering family. And that's why I think I should do it where the best of our craft have been. That’s important.”

What makes free solo speed climbing so fascinating for you?

“If there is no rope and I am not hanging from a climbing harness, then everything is so easy. Two meters here, two meters there - I don't have to look because of a pulley or anything else. I'm generally quick there. I feel free. And that is an extremely intense, beautiful feeling.”

The 36-year-old Swiss completed the Comici-Dimai route on the Große Zinne in an incredible 46.30 minutes. © www.wisthaler.com - Harald Wisth

Climbing in its purest form...

"I think so. Partly it's also about reducing. Our society is used to building security – and that’s a good thing. In all areas. You take different things and protect yourself for any situation. To actively say that I won't take this or that with me, or even a rope, is a return to the basics. And then it's really just a matter of: Can I manage the route using only my skills, or can I not manage it? And that is an important point.”

Do not be afraid?

“I have no fear when free solo climbing. But fear is a big issue throughout the preparation. I then build up a lot of self-confidence so that I know that everything is still right. When I'm on the mountain and doing what I'm good at, then suddenly it works. But when I'm at home or lying in bed and think about what could happen and what has already happened, of course, then it scares me. I just have to deal specifically with the situation.”

How did you discover free solo speed climbing?

“Actually by chance. I just started at home and set my first record on ice at the beginning. Ice is still my thing, I'm not that strong at rock climbing. When I climb without a rope, I'm actually very fast. I don’t have to do much more.”

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“When I think about what can happen, it’s scary”

In September 2019, the Swiss extreme climber Dani Arnold once again amazed the international mountaineering scene. The 36-year-old Swiss completed the Comici-Dimai route on the Große Zinne in an incredible 46.30 minutes and thus set a new free solo speed record.

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