Reason before the summit storm

Not because of loneliness: Anyone who actually thinks they are capable of climbing the Matterhorn no longer does so in order to escape the hustle and bustle in the valley. The Swiss landmark in the Valais Alps is exposed to a gigantic storm of would-be mountaineers every year. In order to reach the summit at 4478 meters, you can and should secure the services of an experienced mountain guide. You start at 04.00 a.m., you need headlamps and a lot of sure-footedness. Shortly before the summit it becomes extremely challenging again because the crampons have to be put on at the end of the fixed ropes for the last 200 meters, because the last few meters are usually just trudging through snow. Normally.

The Matterhorn is not spared from climate change either. The crampons are no longer needed. The snow is no longer there. Melted. Total. Now one would be tempted to say that this is not a problem after all. Then you just continue walking in the rock like before. But mass tourism not only causes discomfort, but also rockfall, which can have fatal consequences, especially in this case, because usually up to 30 rope teams get on at the same time, which is why the danger is too great and the safety for the paying customers and of course also is no longer sufficiently available for mountain guides. In addition, this week an alpinist fell while descending at an altitude of around 4000 meters above the Hörnligrat and had a fatal accident. According to a report from the Valais cantonal police, he was not roped up. No more guided tours Guided tours of the Matterhorn have been discontinued. The risk is too great. And yet there is no peace. The mountain guides, who are unemployed at this time, observe with concern that roped parties continue to attack the summit. Without her. The mountain, as the credo goes, ultimately belongs to everyone. Reasons fizzle out and are thrown off by the egoism of those who think they can place themselves above nature and the mountain. The motto is clear: It will be okay. The mountain rescue pilots are therefore once again on heightened alert. And not just in Switzerland, but everywhere, because now that it's getting a little cooler again, the mountain season is really picking up speed, although the mountains have changed. There was too little snow in winter. Added to this is the period of good weather that has been going on for weeks. Where there used to be snow in April, May or June in previous years, there is now just bare rock. Flexible to summit happiness In addition, there are always new dangers, as we recently saw clearly in the accident on the Marmolata Glacier with eleven deaths. And the danger has not yet been averted. A new crevasse was discovered. Glaciologists expect that the ice sheet will have completely disappeared in 30 years. However, a group of five French mountaineers who had gotten lost in the cordoned off glacier region had to be rescued again. What in the devil's name made them decide to go on a tour near the catastrophic glacier break?

The Marmolada will be ice-free in 30 years. © ANSA / ANDREA SOLERO

Ignorance, coupled with recklessness perhaps? Luckily nothing happened, but it should be a reminder to all of us that we should plan even more carefully when we go to the mountains in the future. And fortunately, the mountain experience does not necessarily depend on the height of the summit. The Astjoch, for example, to suggest just one route, the highest elevation of the Rodenecker Alm, offers a fantastic panorama at almost 2200 meters. The mountain guides in Switzerland have also adapted. “Thank God there isn’t just the Matterhorn,” said Anjan Truffer, mountain guide and head of rescue at the Zermatt Mountain Rescue Service. A realization that can be adopted with confidence.

About the person: Sigi Heinrich The renowned sports journalist, author and award-winning Eurosport commentator (including winner of the German Television Prize and the Bavarian Sports Prize) not only dedicates his column “Sigi's Spitze” to the entire diversity of sport. He also deals with topics outside of his usual profession. Sometimes very seriously, often with a mischievous wink and sometimes deliberately provocative. There should be something for everyone.

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Reason before the summit storm

Climate change is also affecting the mountains. Where there used to be snow in June or July, there is now just bare rock. Our columnist Sigi Heinrich uses the example of the Matterhorn in Switzerland to see how the danger situation is changing.

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