Michael Piccolruaz from Val Gardena answers questions from the media. © dl

The climbing hype has arrived in South Tyrol

Sport climbing has been an Olympic discipline since the 2021 Olympic Games in Tokyo. The sport is currently experiencing a lot of hype. You can also feel that when you are a guest at the World Cup in Brixen these days.

June 10, 2023

From Brixen

Brixen hosted a bouldering world cup for the second time this year. There is a great enthusiasm for climbing in this country – among young and old. Not just in the halls all year round, but also in the spectator stands when the best boulderers in the world are cheered on in the cathedral city. "Home sweet home. All the cheering pushes you extremely hard. On the other hand, I feel particularly sorry when things don't go well. The event here is simply extremely well received. Many of my international colleagues also say that this is the best World Cup,” explained Michael Piccolruaz after the event Qualification on Friday across from SportNews.

He and Filip Schenk are currently the only South Tyroleans who are at the forefront of the international sport climbing scene. Both come from St. Christina. Piccolruaz even took part in the Olympic premiere two years ago in Tokyo - just like last year in Brixen. Schenk, on the other hand, made his debut in front of a home crowd for the first time on Friday. Even though the two from Val Gardena were unable to qualify for the semi-finals of the best 20, they are enjoying a lot of attention these days. They serve as a kind of role model for young climbing enthusiasts in South Tyrol.

“Many of my international colleagues say that this is the best World Cup” Michael Piccolruaz about Brixen

The 27-year-old Piccolruaz in particular would have liked to have performed better in Brixen: “I'm pretty disappointed today. Of course I would have liked to have shown more in front of the home crowd. I had problems with the skin on my fingers, which was far too dry for the hot temperatures. Physically I wasn't quite up to scratch either. I almost threw away the first boulder, and that stayed with me in my head throughout the qualifying period.”

The sport of bouldering is extremely strenuous. © outThere

And what does Filip Schenk say after his Brixen premiere? “Many colleagues and my family are here today, which makes me proud. I'm not that happy with my competition. I noticed when I was warming up that my fitness wasn't there today. I felt a little exhausted. Probably because I've been doing so much rope climbing training lately. In addition, I felt my elbow inflammation again, which prevented me from training much last week.”

Home sweet home

But Schenk was by no means dejected. After all, at 23 years old, he still has the majority of his career ahead of him. In addition, he is not considered a bouldering expert but rather a lead expert. “The last boulder annoys me because it felt possible. Now comes the Lead World Cups. It's a shame that this World Cup was so close. That's why I had to change my training a little, i.e. train more with the rope, but that shouldn't be an excuse," said Schenk.

“You know almost everyone here. That’s really special.” Filip Schenk

Piccolruaz agreed: “Bouldering in general is getting more difficult every year. The density is higher and the level is rising. In the lead it's a little different. Here you are a little less dependent on the luck component. In other words: If you're fit, you're fit. That’s why I’m now looking forward to the Lead World Cups.”

Filip Schenk takes time for the fans. © dl

At the end of the conversation, we asked Schenk whether he had been particularly nervous in Brixen. He replied: “No, I wouldn’t say that at all. Mentally I'm actually happy. It was just cool to start at home for the first time. Just knowing all the people here is special. All the volunteers who cheer you on also give you a boost.” The climbing hype has also arrived in South Tyrol.